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Written by: Dan Frankian

Published: 04 December 2024

Are you as fascinated by Birds of Prey as we are, here at Hawkeye? Can you tell a hawk from a different raptor? Let's look at some ways to help with raptor identification.

Common Hawk Species in Canada

Canada with its varying climates and terrains is home to many birds of prey. When we can observe them is as important as where. Some of our fine feathered friends will travel south and to more amicable temperatures during the winter months, while others don't mind chilling year round. 

Red-Tailed Hawk

As its name might suggest, the red-tailed hawk has indeed a distinctive short and wide red tail - who would have guessed!? It is a large bird with broad with rounded wings and a wing span of over a meter. Its back is brown and its underside is light. Most red-tailed hawks will migrate south for the winter, but you may be able to spot a few in the very southern parts of Ontario, especially during a mild winter.

Northern Harrier

The Northern Harrier is actually the most often seen hawk in Ontario - from spring to fall, that is. That is the time to breed and raise a family. The Northern Harrier is a slender bird with broad wings, often seen as a V-shape in flight; the tips of the wings are above its body. Its wing span also surpasses a meter. Females are typically brown on top, light coloured underneath while males sport a gray top half.

Cooper's Hawk

The Cooper's Hawk is smaller than the previous two - about the size of a crow. It is a beautiful bird with a blue-grey back,  an orange (copper) chest, and a long tail with dark bands and a white tip. Adult birds have a dark 'cap' on their rather square head. It is seen in Southern Ontario year round but may leave the Northern regions and head as far south as Mexico for the winter months.

Sharp-Shinned Hawk

The Sharp-Shinned Hawk is smaller yet and often mistaken for a Cooper's Hawk; it has the same colouring. However, it has a round head without no cap standing out. The sharp-shinned hawk will migrate from most of Ontario but may stick around in the very southern parts.

Rough-Legged Hawk

The Rough-Legged Hawk gets its name from its feathered legs - insulation against the cold. As you may have guessed, the rough-legged hawk mostly stays in Ontario throughout the winter. It is a truly majestic bird -dark or light brown with dark patches at the bend of the wing, end of its tail and across its underside. The broad wings are relatively long and narrow compared to most other hawks.

Read more: How to Identify a Hawk

Written by: Dan Frankian

Published: 03 December 2024

First things first - let's confirm that the animal is actually deceased. It could just be stunned and spring to life when handled - this is potentially dangerous.  If regaining consciousness, the animal may be disoriented, perceive you as a threat, and go on the offensive. 

What To Do If You Find a Dead Animal: Assessing the Situation

After you have confirmed that the animal is dead, try to determine how it may have died. Was it hit by a vehicle, can you observe any physical trauma, or does it look like the animal perished from disease or poisoning? If there is not discernable trauma or injuries present, extra caution is in order when determining what to do if you find a dead wild animal.

Health Risks Associated with Dead Animals

All things dead potentially carry some health risks. It doesn't really matter what type of animal you've come across. However, particularly animals known to carry rabies ought to be handled with great care. You'll also want to keep decomposition risks at a minimum.

Bacterial Infections

Dead animals can carry bacterial infections that may be transmitted to humans or pets, including:

• Salmonellosis
  Salmonellosis is a bacterial infection that can be spread by many types of animals, both wild and domestic. Symptoms include diarrhea, stomach pain, fever, and vomiting.
  
  
• E-Coli
  E. coli, or Escherichia coli, is a type of bacteria that is frequently found in the intestines of humans and animals alike. Most E. coli strains are harmless and necessary for digestion, produce vitamins, and protect against harmful germs. However, some strains can cause illness, with symptoms including diarrhea, urinary tract infections, pneumonia, and even sepsis.
  
  
• Brucellosis
  Brucellosis is a bacterial infection that can be present in animals with no noticeable symptoms. Smoking, cooking, freezing, drying, or pickling meat does not kill the bacteria that cause brucellosis.
  
  
• Tularemia 
  Tularemia is a bacterial disease that is transmitted through direct contact with an infected animal, its blood, or its tissues. It can also be transmitted by means of a bite by an infected insect, such as a tick or a biting fly.
  
  

Read more: What Do You Do if You Find a Dead Animal?

Written by: Dan Frankian

Published: 28 November 2024

Skunks are most people's least favorite nuisance wildlife to have come around. Aside from the potent aroma and digging up of lawns, skunks also pose a real and imminent threat to chickens and other small poultry livestock. So, trapping and relocating seems like a good option (and really the only legal one, if done by a homeowner and not a wildlife animal control company). But, how do you trap and release a skunk without getting sprayed? Let's find out!

Understanding Skunk Behavior

Skunks in the wild are generally quite timid and shy. They aren't aggressive by nature and neither seek nor want conflict with human kind. Spraying is their last ditch effort to obscure and get away - they are the Batman of the forest and their spray is the smoke bomb. 

About Skunks Spraying

Skunks have two scent glands on either side of their anus that can release spray on command. The glands in themselves aren't unique; wolves, coyotes, dogs and both wild and cats have anal scent glands as well. In all other animals, the scent glands are primarily used for marking territory, and the smell is quite different and nowhere near as strong. The skunk uses its spray, which is an oily yellow fluid that contains Thioacetate and Sulphur compounds mostly as a defensive weapon. On the receiving end, the spray stings and irritates, eyes, skin, and airways. Both, reach and aim of the spray are really quite remarkable; spray can travel up to 22 feet and reach its target with stunning accuracy when released from 10 feet away or less.

However, skunks don't go around spraying their stuff willy-nilly. Because it is their most viable defense (yes, they do have sharp claws and teeth and could potentially duke it out) and because it takes time to 'recharge' their weapon, it is used as sparingly as possible. The glands hold enough spray for about 5 discharges and then have to replenish for 8-10 days. During this time, the skunk is void of its potent defense mechanism.

How to Trap a Skunk Without Getting Sprayed: Choosing the Right Trap

Live Traps vs. Lethal Traps

This is a non-starter: It is illegal in Ontario to kill skunks (or raccoons). As per the Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources and Forestry regulations, wildlife including skunks must be humanely removed and relocated. So, the question here becomes: "How to live trap a skunk without getting sprayed?". Live traps are the ONLY acceptable trap to use. Even so, there are a number of options and things to consider:

Trap Size and Material

You should only attempt to trap a skunk in a medium or large animal trap. The skunk ought to be able to stand up and turn around in the trap. 

• Metal Wire Trap
  This is likely the most common commercially available trap and with a spring loaded door is easy to set. Note that it should be at least 25-35 inches long.
  
  
• Skunk Trap
  This trap is basically a solid metal tube (with holes for air flow, of course), too small for a skunk to lift its tail and arch its back (this is part of the spray release mechanism/ritual). The fact that the skunk cannot physically release its spray is what allows this to be deemded a 'skunk proof trap'. This trap requires diligent supervision and relocation/releasing of the animal should be completed as soon as possible.
  
  
• Wooden Trap
  Many home made traps are made of wood and as long as they are large enough and don't injure the animal, there's nothing wrong here. However, IF the skunk sprays or even has sprayed recently, the wood will absorb that lovely aroma and you'll get to enjoy it for some time to come.

Preparing the Trap Area and Placing the Trap

Identifying Skunk Travel Routes

Firstly and most importantly - is this where the skunk hangs out or travels through? Yes? You've seen it? Or, have you seen tracks at least? Skunk footprints look a bit like those of a miniature bear; the front feet have long claws that show up as dots well ahead of the toes. Alright then, let's proceed.

Read more: How to Trap a Skunk Without Getting Sprayed

Written by: Dan Frankian

Published: 27 November 2024

One of the most sticky and dangerous situations you can get yourself into is accidentally happening upon a den and youngsters of *insert wildlife species*. We are probably all aware of and have heard stories about inadvertently getting in between bear cubs and their mum (and the term 'momma bear') but most of us don't know what's happening when we are seemingly being stalked by a coyote. If you find yourself in such a situation, chances are you have gotten a little close for comfort to a coyote den and what you are experiencing is quite normal coyote behavior. But, what does a coyote den look like? 

Typical Coyote Den Locations

You'll generally find coyotes in dens just during pup season; otherwise, they'll sleep out in the open (but under cover of trees or foliage). They may temporarily seek refuge from larger predators or the elements in a den, but won't linger longer than necessary. When they have little ones, their den can be a hollowed-out tree, a rock outcrop, or even an abandoned den of another species altogether. When coyotes do build their own den, it will likely be under a protective cover like plants, trees, or buildings and be situated on a slope to allow for drainage.

Natural Terrain Features

Coyote burrows are often dug in sandy soil, on the slope of a ravine. Trees with exposed roots offer cavities with great cover. Large downed trees with hollows also make for excellent den sites. Openings or caves can turn into dens in mountainous terrain.

Urban and Suburban Settings

Any site that has been abandoned or sees little to no traffic may become home to a coyote family. Coyotes may excavate under old foundations, porches or even under no longer in use machinery. Shut down construction sites offer a plethora of possibilities.

Seasonality

Mating season and the casual search for an abode fit to raise a family starts in January or February. After a 60-65 day gestation period pups are whelped anywhere from late March to mid May. They will stay with their parents for 6-9 months. Interestingly, coyotes will often change dens and move the whole kit 'n caboodle to a new site. This can happen several times during those first 9 months. 

Physical Characteristics of Coyote Dens

Read more: What Does a Coyote Den Look Like?

Written by: Dan Frankian

Published: 27 November 2024

Chicken farmers everywhere are tasked with keeping their little (or large) flocks safe from predators. One of the more bold and dangerous of those predators is the coyote. Let's look at ways to construct and maintain a building that will ensure chicken coop safety.

Understanding Coyote Behavior and Threats to Chickens

Coyotes are intelligent and opportunistic creatures; they have discovered that the presence of humans greatly increases their choice of meals. From trash bins to unprotected pets and smaller livestock - everything is fair game. Whereas coyotes were traditionally found in the wild and perhaps rural areas, they have now quite comfortably settled into the burbs and even urban centres, giving rise to the need for wildlife management services.

While coyotes are generally too large to get into a chicken coop through the usually fairly small door used by the chickens, they have little issue getting to poultry and other small livestock once they are outside of their abode. Free range chickens are always at risk outside but we can cut down that risk by putting up a strong outdoor run in addition to a sturdy coyote proof coop.

10 Tips for Building and Maintaining a Coyote-Proof Chicken Coop

If you keep chickens you are always concerned for their safety and wellbeing. Whether you raise birds for meat or eggs, their needs are likely at the top of your list of concerns. One of the biggest investments and also one of the most important areas of concern will be your chicken coop. Let's look at what to consider when building a coyote proof chicken coop:

Tip 1: Choose the Right Location for Your Coop

Let's set aside safety for a moment and just think about comfort and needs. We should always pick a spot that offers some shade, but ideally has some southern exposure to capture some heat in the winter. Your chicken coop should be close enough to the house and water sources to make tending to your flock not too cumbersome when trekking through 3 feet of snow.

Tip 2: Use Strong, Durable Materials

Build as strong as you can afford. You may be tempted to use traditional chicken wire (after all, it's named aptly) which is less costly, but hardware cloth is much stronger and won't give way to predators. The openings in wire mesh partitions or hardware cloth are also much smaller, so claws from animals such as fishers cannot reach through and injure your chickens.

Tip 3: Implement Proper Fencing Techniques

Fencing needs to go at least a foot below ground and ideally 6 feet high. Many people don't realize that chickens CAN fly. They usually don't, but they sure can :) And to discourage prolific diggers like skunks or badgers, we'll want to make sure that our fence extends below ground as well. Sturdy posts are also important if we want to keep larger predators such as coyotes out of our chicken run.

Read more: 10 Tips for Building and Maintaining a Coyote-Proof Chicken Coop

Written by: Dan Frankian

Published: 21 November 2024

Well, that's a strange topic, isn't it? However, it's a really good idea that you are proficient in animal scat identification and can determine what kind of animal has left you a 'present' in your backyard - for the sake and safety of your family and your pets. With coyotes becoming more of an issue even in urban neighbourhoods, let's make sure you have the knowledge to determine if you have a coyote nearby.

General Characteristics of Coyote Scat

As a rule of thumb, coyote droppings are generally about one inch in diameter and 3-4 inches long - similar to that of a medium sized dog. However, both size and appearance can vary according to diet. Let's explore how we can learn to tell that this is NOT dog poop, but rather coyote scat:

Rope-Like or Tubular Shape

Coyote droppings may appear to be looking like a twisted rope at first glance. The generally tubular shape may be tapered at one end. The overall appearance is likely smooth and shiny.

Firm and Well-Formed Texture

In stark contrast to dog feces (usually soft), coyote scat is firm or may even seem crumbly. Both the colour and consistency very much depend on the coyote's most recent diet and will change according to what type of food is available - Coyote diet varies according to season or habitat.

Visible Animal Hair, Bone Fragments, Seeds

Again, depending on what the animal has consumed, you will see bone, hair, or berries and seeds in the scat. Bone fragments and hair or fur, of course, points to live prey or carrion having been consumed. The more seeds (think summer time) there are, the more crumbly the scat will appear.

Strong, Musky Scent

Coyote scat has a very strong, musky smell due to their scent glands near the base of their tail. These glands release a scent when meeting or otherwise communicating with other coyotes - and, of course, when defecating. Coyotes leave their scat in strategically significant places to let other animals know they have been there. While most territory marking is done with urine (which also has a very strong scent), it is believed that scat is used in a similar way and for similar reasons. Coyote scat smells nothing like dog poop.

Read more: How to Identify Coyote Scat: The Scoop on the Poop

Written by: Dan Frankian

Published: 20 November 2024

We were about to write an article about the largest Bird(s) of Prey when we got hung up on whether or not the Andean Condor falls into that category.  Who could foresee the debate that sparked!? So, here are our findings:

The Andean condor (Vultur Gryphus)  is the largest flying bird in the world. It is often associated with majesty and power, commanding respect due to its humongous size and wingspan. The Andean Condor makes its home in South America, in the Andes Mountains. Because of its size and weight - up to 15 kg! - it needs some height to start with on take-off. Think a hang glider pushing off the mountain - that's the Andean Condor. It is usually classified as a bird of prey but there has been some argument in the scientific community as to whether it really fits this classification. In exploring this argument it’s essential we define the characteristics of a bird of prey, its diet and feeding habits, and also to consider its ecological role. 

Birds of Prey, or Raptors, are defined by several Basic Characteristics:

• Carnivorous diet: Raptors hunt and feed on other animals, ranging from insects and birds to mammals.
• Excellent Vision: Raptors possess unparalleled eyesight allowing them to see prey from great distances.
• Active Hunters: Raptors are active hunters, seeking and capturing live prey.
• Sharp Talons and Beak: Raptors use their sharp talons to catch and kill their prey and have a hooked beak devised for tearing the flesh of their catch.

Birds of prey include eagles, owls, hawks and falcons. All of these birds share the previous traits listed. Vultures are often included in the list of birds of prey, although many question if they are truly raptors. as they are known as scavengers that usually eat already dead animals.

Feeding Habits and Drive

The diet and feeding habits of the Andean Condor is mostly that of a scavenger, much like a vulture. It hunts for carrion, or dead and often decaying animals, such as livestock, deer, or small mammals, whether they died of natural causes or are left overs from another animal’s kill. The Andean Condor does not possess the active drive and predatory behaviours usually associated with raptors like hawks and eagles.

Physical Characteristics

The Andean Condor possesses many of the same physical traits as a bird of prey. It has the same large hooked beak to tear the flesh of the carrion it eats. The talons are not as sharp or strong as those of a typical raptor because it doesn’t need to grip or kill live prey, like an eagle or falcon does.

The Andean Condor is well know for its spectacular soaring ability. With a wingspan that can reach over 3 metres, it is able to fly over great distances, catching thermal winds to soar barely flapping its wings. This conserves its energy and enables it to stay aloft longer and cover greater distances in search of food. Birds of prey are also able to soar to great heights and catch thermals to stay aloft in order to search for food. The condor is not nearly as fast or agile and other raptors since it doesn’t need to catch live prey. This fact further sets it apart from other more agile, skillful and faster predators that make up the raptor category.

The condor has excellent vision, similar to other raptors, in that it can see great distances from high altitudes in order to spot its next meal. The Andean Condor is vital to the ecosystem for cleaning up the environment by eating the dead and rotting animals and preventing disease from being spread. The condor, like the vulture, has incredibly strong digestive acids that kill most bacteria and fungi. The intestinal flora of these incredible birds do the rest of the job. Andean Condors also enjoy a very strong immune system. Although it is not a predator in the traditional sense, as part of Mother Nature's clean-up crew, it still contributes significantly to the role of balancing the ecosystem, much like raptors do by controlling the populations of smaller mammals and insects.

Read more: Is The Andean Condor Actually Considered a Bird Of Prey?

Written by: Dan Frankian

Published: 19 November 2024

Both, coyote and wolf have special importance in many cultures and hold spiritual symbolism. Both are thought to represent strength, wisdom, and may evoke feelings of foreboding peril. Both are revered and feared at the same time, due to their intelligence, speed, power, and prowess. But, how do you tell them apart?

Understanding Coyotes and Wolves

Telling apart a coyote and a wolf isn't terribly difficult if they appear side-by-side. Of course, that's not usually the case. You'll likely only see one or the other. So, let's look at a few coyote and wolf behaviors, some markers and characteristics that may enable us to determine if the canine we are seeing is a coyote or a wolf.

Geographical Distribution

Coyotes (their name is derived from the Aztec 'coyotl') are native to North and Central America but most prominent throughout Canada and the United States. Wolves can be found throughout North America, Europe,  and even in Asia. Wolves are highly adaptable and inhabit a wide range of terrains including temperate forests, mountains, tundra, taiga, grasslands, and deserts. Coyote and wolf habitats are not unlike; both species can be seen in similar habitats in Canada.

In recent years, coyotes have moved in to suburbs and even urban neighbourhoods (and caused some havoc, too). Wolves really are much less inclined to hang around people; they may linger around farms and livestock, though.

Coyote or Wolf? 7 Easy Ways to Tell These Canines Apart

1. Size and Body Shape Differences

There's a huge difference in size and weight between coyotes and wolves. As with most canines, the male is generally larger and heavier than the female. 

Coyote
The average coyote will weigh 25-40lbs, although animals weighing as much as 55lbs have been recorded. Overall, coyotes have a fairly slim frame.

Wolf
The wolf is the largest member of the dog, or Canid, family, with a body weight of 40-145lbs (so more than double the size of a coyote) and a more stocky or bulky silhouette. What we see here in Ontario is most likely the Gray Wolf, or occasionally a Timber Wolf. 

2. Facial Features and Expressions

Not unlike our trusted companion, man's best friend, both coyotes and wolves not only communicate through facial expressions and body language, but also show their personality in face and body. While there are a few expressions understood by all, there are many nuances that are pack or even animal specific. Experessions common across all canine species are anger or aggression (raised lips, showing teeth, crinkled nose, ears pinned). Also, the lower the rank in the pack, the more elaborate their facial expressions; higher ranking or more dominant animals seem get their point across by status alone.

Coyote
Coyotes have a narrow face with a long and fairly slim snout. Their ears are wide set, large and pointy. The eyes are yellow and they are capable of making 'puppy dog eyes' - you know, that 'pleeeeease' look that happens when the inner corners of the eyebrows are raised.

Wolf
Wolves have a broader face, a wider snout and shorter, more rounded ears. Joy is expressed by ears pointing forward and pulling the corners of the lips back and a dropping of the jaw, resulting in a 'smile' that is characteristic for Northern dog breeds as well (think huskie, malamute, chow, spitz, etc.)

Read more: Coyote or Wolf? What's the Difference?

Written by: Dan Frankian

Published: 13 November 2024

It's the middle of February and while we are still trotting through feet of snow and dream of colourful cocktails by the pool, our friend, the skunk is stirring and dreaming of family additions. Come along as we explore the mating habits and breeding season of skunks and what that might mean for you as a home owner in Ontario.

How Long Are Skunks Pregnant?: Skunk Mating Season

Skunks are emerging from winter dens during the months of February and March – on the lookout for a perfect mating partner. Older and more experienced females will generally come into season earlier than first time mums and sometimes unusually warm or cold temperatures may play a role as well. While the ladies are looking for one partner, the males may mate with several (or, as many as available) females in one breeding season. We generally think of skunks as nocturnal animals but, it is actually not that uncommon to see skunks during the daytime. If there is food to be had, if a mid day snooze is interrupted, if one is feeling amorous, and definitely if there are babies… you might see one or more skunks on the road. Hopefully, you'll see them strutting down the road engaged in the pursuit of skunk reproduction and not laying by the side of it; sadly, many skunks end up struck and killed by motor vehicles.

Skunk Courtship Behavior

So, what does it look like when boy skunk meets girl skunk and passions erupt? What happens before and during date night?

Scent Marking

Ah yes.. that 'scent'. Curiously, boy skunk and girl skunk use their unmistakable aroma for different purposes. The male will leave his scent behind to entice the ladies in the vicinity (really? That works?). While we may not be able to discern a difference, apparently, not all skunks smell the same. Two or more males may also end up fighting over mating rights and spray their opponents. Females, on the other hand, will signal their utter disapproval by releasing their spray. There's nothing like a puff of smelly air to relay a 'no, thank you' message to an unsuccessful suitor.

Vocalizations

Yep. Skunks actually make sounds. Who knew? Male skunks will let out a series of grunts and growls during courtship. Those are low pitched sounds that can be heard over a fair distance and intended to communicate dominance and suitability to the ladies in the area. During actual mating, the male will produce a high pitched squeal, while the female can be heard 'purring'. Outside of mating rituals skunks also do some lip smacking to convey contentment and mothers may stomp their feet to drive off a threat to her offspring.

Chase Behavior

Male skunks will not chase female skunks during mating season. They will, however, chase and fight each other - for the right to pursue a female. The female has the last word and makes the decision of who gets to father her offspring. Once the deed is done, the male will wonder off in pursuit of another mate.

Skunk Gestation Period

In a rather genius move by Mother Nature, a female skunk can 'save' the male’s sperm by storing it separately from her eggs and delay pregnancy until the weather warms up a bit or she otherwise deems conditions to be acceptable. Once impregnated, Momma Skunk will carry her kits for about 60-70 days before giving birth - a fairly lengthy gestation period. An average skunk litter consists of about 4-7 little ones, but as many as 10 have been recorded. Only one litter is born per year.

Read more: How Long Are Skunks Pregnant?

Written by: Dan Frankian

Published: 12 November 2024

• Property Managers are responsible for the appearance of the properties they look after.
• They must also look out for the health and safety of tenants, employees, customers, and visitors.
• Property Managers must prevent structural damage to the buildings they maintain.
• They must also avoid legal liabilities.

Why do Property Managers need to Worry about Bird or Animal Wildlife Control?

Read more: Why Property Managers Need Bird and Animal Control

Written by: Dan Frankian

Published: 11 November 2024

Anything in your garden! :) No, seriously, they tend to raid a garden in record time. In this article, we'll explore which foods are loved by groundhogs and likely will have them coming back for more - come along!

Understanding the Diet of our Backyard Visitor

Groundhogs, also known as woodchucks, are a part of the rodent family Sciuridae and belong to a group of large ground squirrels known as marmots. They are cute, short legged, and furry critters who hibernate throughout the winter and emerge from their burrows in early April. They are mostly herbivores - mostly! Occasionally, groundhogs may also like to eat insects, slugs, bird eggs and other small creatures. So, not the most committed vegetarians, they are. Interestingly, groundhogs do not require a whole lot of water. The majority of their water intake comes from moisture contained in and on leaves. All in all, what groundhogs eat and drink depends on what is readily available.

What Do Groundhogs Like to Eat?: Common Foods in a Groundhog's Diet

Vegetation and Grasses

Groundhogs can eat up to a pound and a half of vegetation every single day. That's pretty impressive for such little guys. Favorites include clover, alfalfa, dandelions, and variouses grass varieties.

Fruits and Berries

Based on seasonal availability, groundhogs will happily add all sorts of fruits and berries to their menu as well. These might include apples, pears, blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, cherries, hackberries, and mulberries. 

Garden Vegetables  

Oh boy. If you're an avid gardener, you'll not like groundhogs. 2 groundhogs can decimate your vegetable garden in 24 to 48 hours. They will go after broccoli, cabbage, lettuce, carrots, beans, peas, squash, peppers, tomatoes, and more. What groundhogs love to eat is very likely pretty close to everything you love to grow.

Tree Bark and Twigs

The jaw of a groundhog is strong, and the teeth grow throughout its life. Munching on twigs, sticks, acorns, and bark helps keep them sharp and trimmed. They'll also nibble on maple leaves, hickory nuts, and plant or tree roots. Roughage is a vital component of nearly every mammal's dietary requirements and digestive health.

Flower Gardens

You'll be equally unhappy about your resident groundhog's activities, if you tend to lovely flower gardens. Unfortunately, flowers such as hostas, coneflowers, sunflowers, asters, daisies, snapdragons, and even marigolds are also coveted summer menu items. Often times, not only the foliage falls prey to the groundhog, but also the roots.

Read more: What Do Groundhogs Eat?

Written by: Dan Frankian

Published: 06 November 2024

Raccoons are well known for getting into stuff, including the bowls you leave out for your kitty or the pet food you store in your garage or shed . This can lead to worries about pet safety from wildlife and unexpected and unpleasant confrontations. Let's learn more!

Can Raccoons Hurt Cats?

In short: Yes, absolutely. While we may think of raccoons as mischevious bandits, we need to remember that they are wild animals. Like all wildlife, they will retalliate if they feel cornered, threatened, or protecting young or territory. And, while cats might have an advantage when it comes to speed (although, raccoons can reach speeds of up to 15 kmh), raccoons are more powerful and can indeed seriously injure your feline companion.

Understanding Raccoon Behavior

Raccoons are curious, bold, highly intelligent, and generally unafraid critters. Highly adaptable and not just surviving, but thriving in the urban jungle of metropolitan cities such as Toronto. Did you know that Toronto has been crowned the Raccoon Capitol of the World? They aren't necessarily known to go out of their way to pick a fight, unless it's over food or territory.Luckily, most adult cats recognize the difference in size and strength when confronted by a raccoon and won't seek a fight.

But, cats and raccoons also have quite a few things in common. Did you know that raccoons also 'purr' when they are happy? Both animals are most active at night and are excellent climbers with sharp claws and teeth. Which is the precisely why physical confrontations can have dire consequences. 

Raccoon Habits and Habitat

Raccoons are primarily nocturnal. So are feral and our domestic cats. So, right there is the potential for encounters. With woodland spaces becoming smaller and more scarce, raccoons have moved into our neighbourhoods and are now quite happy and successful in urban spaces. They are smart, able to learn by observation, and extremely resourceful when it comes to procuring food sources. Suburban backyards and inner city trash bins provide plenty of food and chimneys or attics in human dwellings can double nicely as denning sites.

Raccoon Aggression Triggers

The biggest trigger has got to be perceived danger to raccoon kits. Like every mother ever and anywhere, Momma raccoon will fiercely defend her den and her young. Next in line would be feeling cornered and/or threatened, closely followed by disputes over food or territory. Raccoons are generally solitary animals and do not share territories. The last and probably most dangerous reason for raccoon aggression would be the raccoon having contracted rabies and exhibiting symptoms.  

Read more: Can Raccoons Hurt Cats?