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News, little truths and wisdom regarding Pest Bird & Animal Wildlife Control, Falconry, and Birds of Prey....


 

geesefeb2021Canada geese are one of the most recognizably large birds in southern Ontario. These waterfowl gather in large groups throughout the spring and early summer, and many populations stay in southern Ontario year-round. They are herbivores and eat mostly young plant shoots and grains, meaning they often congregate on grass lawns, agricultural fields, and construction sites. Because the Canada goose can live up to 20 years, they often return to the same properties each year to nest and moult. Resident populations have grown as much as 250 times over the last few decades due to changes humans have made to the environment. These changes include well-maintained grass lawns and grain fields that provide nutritious food year-round, and suburban developments of open fields and ponds with accessible shorelines that provide an ideal, safe habitat. As a result, the number of conflicts between geese and humans has increased.

What damage can geese cause? Why do they have to be removed?

Though Canada geese are not considered a pest species by the Government of Canada, they certainly are a nuisance. As their population has increased over the last several decades, conflicts between geese and humans have risen. Geese are often noisy and intrusive in large groups, and they can rip apart a grass lawn or garden by feeding. Another major way geese can destroy your property is through their feces. Their feces can act as a corrosive agent and can easily damage tar-based roofing material and industrial machinery. Also, their droppings can be an unsightly aspect of any lawn or property. Another major area of concern is geese in airports. Large flocks of geese in the airspace and immediate areas around an airport create a risk of hitting and damaging incoming or outgoing aircrafts. This can be dangerous for both geese and humans. Finally, Canada geese can become very aggressive while nesting; they will attack humans and other animals they deem to be threats. Though their antics can be quite humorous, Canada geese can be vicious and can easily seriously harm a small child or animal.

How and when can I get authorization to remove geese from my property?

Canada geese are protected under the Migratory Birds Convention Act 1994, and therefore many techniques used to deter them from properties require a Canadian Wildlife Service (CWS) Migratory Bird Permit. The best time to obtain a permit is in January and February, because they can often take a while for CWS to process. Hawkeye can obtain the permits on the customer’s behalf to ensure that bird control can proceed in the most efficient way.

Where and when do they become a problem?

Canada geese first become a problem for many people at the beginning of nesting season, when they pair up with their mate and choose a territory. This usually occurs in early to mid-March in Southern Ontario. From late March to late April, the geese will lay up to 10 eggs (typically 4 or 5), which will hatch around mid-May, although some geese will nest later and may not hatch their young until as late as early June. These geese are opportunistic nest builders and will make nests from almost anything, but usually build mats of grasses and reeds near wetlands or ponds. Ideal habitats like these can support many pairs of geese. However, they will also make their nests on cliffs, trees, barges, apartment balconies, and rooftop gardens as long as there is a nearby water source. Though geese generally hang out near the nesting sites while laying, incubating, and raising their brood, they often forage during the day away from the site and return at night. These nesting sites can cause unwanted interactions and conflicts in places like urban parks, golf courses, and cemeteries when there are many birds. Even a single pair may become a significant problem in residential areas, such as rooftop gardens, balconies, or flower boxes.

What can be done in the early springtime to stop them from nesting?

Once geese have picked out a nesting territory and laid eggs, it can be challenging to convince them to leave. It is easiest to discourage them from nesting as soon as they arrive at your property. Scaring or "hazing" geese is an effective method to stop them from settling in an unwanted area. It involves chasing geese away every time they show up until they leave. Hawkeye uses many techniques to scare geese, including using remotely operated vehicles (ROVs), dogs, and birds of prey to chase the birds, as well as using pyrotechnics and lasers to scare them further. Dogs and ROVs will chase geese on the ground and in the water, and birds of prey like hawks, falcons, and especially eagles will chase geese from the air. Hawkeye uses firearms that discharge cracker shells, called screamers and bangers, that create a loud sound to frighten the geese away. The use of ROVs and pyrotechnics to scare geese requires a federal permit. The use of birds of prey requires a kill permit issued by Environment Canada. Hawkeye is able to obtain these. The advantage of these methods is that they effectively keep geese away and create an unsafe environment for the geese, therefore discouraging nesting. However, scaring birds away like this must be repeated often, and Hawkeye can return anywhere from 2 days a week to 7 days a week to ensure the geese leave until they nest elsewhere. If birds have become accustomed to nesting on a particular property, it can take some time before the issue is resolved. Once Hawkeye has started working, it can take a couple of years to see a drastic reduction of geese as they learn to stay away, but often we see results quite quickly.

What can we do after they have nested?

Between the time when they nest, and when the young geese learn to fly, it is difficult to get rid of them. The parents, especially the males, become extremely protective and will go after humans viciously. This period lasts from mid-March, when they establish territories, to mid to late July, when the young learn to fly and move on from the nesting site. Between early April to mid-May, most geese are incubating their eggs, and there are multiple methods Hawkeye can employ to get rid of the nests and eggs. These methods are called lethal management because they destroy or stop the eggs from hatching and require a federal permit from Canadian Wildlife Services.

Egg sterilization by chemical oiling is one such method. This involves coating the eggs in vegetable or mineral oil, which prevents the birds from hatching. Because the eggs will not hatch, fewer geese will be born in the season, and therefore fewer geese will be present on the property. Unfortunately, this is not the most effective method of dispersing geese. The geese will continue to incubate the eggs, and therefore stay in the nest area, for as long as they think the eggs are viable: up to 6 weeks after being oiled. This means that they will continue to aggressively defend their nest to unknowing passers-by. Oiling the eggs does not significantly deter the birds from coming back to the same location to nest next year. When not oiled properly, the eggs may hatch, and deformed geese may be born. Therefore, this technique should be done by a professional and is illegal to do on your own without a permit. Further, the geese may track the oil into a nearby water source, contaminating the water and the ground with chemicals. Finally, complete oiling of the eggs requires as many as 20 visits per month over the two nesting months.

A more effective and much less complicated method is egg destruction and nest removal. When their eggs are destroyed, the geese have no reason to stay through the nesting period and will move on. Because the geese are no longer protecting nests, they become much less aggressive and can be more easily chased away. Moreover, the geese will learn to stay away from this property in subsequent years, as they have learned that this nesting site represents a threat to their eggs.

Since Canada geese are a protected species, all of these techniques are highly monitored, and permits restrict the number of eggs and nests eligible for destruction based on geese's current population in certain areas.

What about flocks of geese later in the season?

Once a year, geese moult out their flight feathers and grow new ones, leaving them flightless for 4 to 6 weeks, usually from mid-May to late July. Non-breeding adults will gather in large moulting flocks and pick an area to remain for the remainder of their moult. They will often gather near open sources of water where flightless birds can gain refuge from land predators. Once a moulting flock has gathered and settled into an area, it is very difficult and illegal to scare them away, as they cannot fly and therefore have limited ability to displace themselves. Dogs and birds of prey could easily kill one of the young or flightless birds as they are at a severe disadvantage. Preventing flocks from settling in an area using scaring methods is the most effective way to stop pre-moulting flocks from settling before losing their feathers.

Once they have settled, however, Hawkeye can relocate the flocks. Because they are flightless, moulting geese can be safely rounded up and transported to a more suitable location. Hawkeye typically moves them 300 to 400 km away, so there is no chance of them returning while still moulting. This method requires a federal permit and trained individuals to properly handle the geese, both of which Hawkeye can provide. It effectively keeps the moulting flock away for the rest of the moulting season and can sometimes deter them from returning in subsequent years.

Are there any other, more permanent options?

When other methods fail, shooting birds is an option. With a kill permit and working within the bag limit (the maximum number of game animals permitted to be taken), geese can be shot and killed by professionals. This method is 100 percent effective: what is killed will never come back. Additionally, shooting some geese will scare away others. However, many people oppose such visible lethal management techniques.

Geese can be a very aggravating and even dangerous problem. They can cause a lot of damage to property and cause visual and auditory disturbances. Once they have settled into an area, they are tough to remove, so prevention of geese settling is the most straightforward form of goose control. Hawkeye will work with customers to assess each situation and make recommendations on the best course of action. Hawkeye can ensure effective goose removal in all cases and continue working with customers until all geese are gone.

How to Raccoon-Proof Trees in Your Yard or Garden

RACCOONSRaccoons are nocturnal creatures that like to sleep in dark, warm, and cozy spaces that are also close to a reliable food source, such as underneath porches and decks and inside sheds, garages, and attics.

When none of these options are available, raccoons will resort to a more natural den site: tree hollows. Being the smart creatures that they are, raccoons tend to prefer trees that are located on a residential property because this makes it easier for them to scavenge for food at night while also providing them with a safe location to raise their kits.

Unfortunately, raccoons are a nuisance for homeowners. They cause a lot of property damage, make a lot of noise at night and sometimes during the day, and they make communal latrines to relieve themselves on your property.

So, what can you do if you find a raccoon or raccoon nest in your tree? Keep reading to learn everything you need to know.

Hawkeye’s Raccoon Control and Prevention from Yards, Gardens, and Trees

Hawkeye Bird and Animal Control specialize in identifying and safely removing raccoon nests from residential and commercial properties. Our team of specially trained pest and wildlife handlers have the professional skill set to provide expert raccoon control and prevention methods in a safe and humane manner. We use the following raccoon removal and control techniques to get rid of raccoons in your yard, garden, and tree hole.

  • One-way exit. We set up an intricate one-way exit path that allows raccoons to leave your property on their own schedule with minimal disturbance and no damage to your property.
  • Hand-capture. In circumstances that require the raccoon to be removed immediately and when we can safely approach the creature, our team will carefully capture it by hand and place it in a secure transport container.
  • Cage traps. This is the most common and socially acceptable method used to capture a raccoon in urban and semi-urban areas. It’s easy to use and perfectly safe for both the animal and the handler.

Why Is There a Raccoon in My Tree?

Raccoons are constantly looking for a safe, secure, and warm denning site that’s within close proximity to a reliable and easily accessible food source. It also has to provide excellent support and protection from external elements such as inclement weather conditions and predators.

Tree hollows—particularly fruit trees or trees located in a vegetable or fruit garden—are the ideal location for raccoons to nest with their nurseries. If you happen to have a large fruit tree on your property that also has one or two hollow spots, then don’t be surprised if you come across a raccoon infestation at some point. Raccoons are particularly attracted to sweet, fragrant foods. Ripe fruits such as apples, plums, apricots, peaches, mulberries, and cherries are all favourite food items for both adult and baby raccoons.

Not only do these foods satisfy their hunger, but they also provide excellent nutritional value for growing raccoon families. Initially, raccoons are attracted to fallen fruit from trees because they’re easy targets. Once the raccoons realize that they can nest inside the tree, however, it’s a lot harder to get rid of them, especially since raccoons are extremely skilled climbers.

Why Do Raccoons Make Nests in Trees?

There are several reasons raccoons make nests in trees. As mentioned, raccoons love a variety of fruits and fruit trees provide easy and consistent access to a reliable food source. Other reasons why raccoons nest in trees include:

  • Tree hollows provide a warm and safe denning site
  • To shelter themselves from the elements and predators
  • Raccoons nest anywhere they can and often have multiple dens set up in various locations
  • Easy access to food

How Do I Get Rid of Raccoons in My Tree?

The safest and most effective way to remove a raccoon or nursery of raccoons from your property is to contact an animal and wildlife control agency like Hawkeye Bird and Animal Control. We have all of the necessary training and credentials to safely remove raccoons from commercial and residential areas.

Don’t attempt to remove or capture the raccoon yourself, especially if they have babies. Adult raccoons will take this as a threat and go into automatic defence mode, which could result in serious injury for you and your loved ones, not to mention extensive property damage.

Plus, raccoons carry diseases such as rabies, canine distemper, infectious canine hepatitis, raccoon parvoviral enteritis, and pseudorabies—all of which are transmissible to humans. Getting bitten by a rabid raccoon will result in death nearly 100% of the time.

To minimize the risk of personal injury and extensive property damage, we recommend taking the following actions:

  • Identify the raccoon-infested tree. Knowing which tree is infested with raccoons ahead of time will make it easier for our crew to do their jobs and map out a plan of action to safely remove the raccoons from your property.
  • Clear the tree of raccoons. Once we have a plan in place, our trained wildlife handlers will carefully move in closer to the tree and coax the raccoons out using a variety of proven techniques. The objective is to quickly try to trap the raccoons before they can make a getaway. Some processes such as eliminating food sources in the tree and cutting off branches so they can’t climb up and down require a great deal of patience.
  • Raccoon-proof your tree. This is more of a preventative measure that involves trimming tree branches, removing food sources, and sealing tree hollows, so that raccoons can’t nest inside.

 

Hawkeye’s Professional Raccoon Control Solutions

At Hawkeye Bird and Animal Control, we’re committed to providing high-quality and sustainable raccoon control, removal, and prevention solutions that are in full compliance with Ontario wildlife protection regulations. Our handlers receive ongoing and updated training in safely and humanely interacting with raccoons to ensure the animals’ well-being and ethical treatment. We are the only pest bird and animal/wildlife control company in the country designated “Certified Wildlife Control Professionals”.

To learn more about animal welfare compliance standards or to book our raccoon control and removal services, contact us today!


Why Hawkeye?

We GUARANTEE results. We offer PERMANENT solutions above and beyond what other companies can offer. Hawkeye is the ONLY pest bird and animal/wildlife control company in Canada designated "Certified Wildlife Control Professional" AND holding the following licenses:  

  • Trapping of Fur-Bearing Animals Permit: In contrast to all other companies, we can euthanize the bird or fur-bearing animal, thus guaranteeing it will not return.
  • Falconry Permit: We use Birds of Prey (hawks, owls, falcons, eagles) to scare, chase, or remove in a natural and humane way.
  • Pest ControlLicense: We can employ chemical solutions to certain problems. These methods include natural pesticides.

Now with 7 Locations ( 6 In Canada and 1 in the U.S), we are ready to serve you better in Acton,  Toronto, Oshawa,  Bowmanville,  two locations in Mississauga and West Palm Beach in Florida.

Contact us today or email us at [email protected] if you need help with pest wildlife/animal control and/or pest animal removal.

Pest wildlife animals like Bats, Bears (Black, Brown), Beavers, Bobcats, Cats - Domestic (Feline), Chipmunks, Coyotes, Deer, Elk, Fox,  Groundhog, Marten, Mink, Moose, Muskrat, Porcupine, Possum/Opossum, Rabbits, Raccoons, Skunks, Squirrels (Black, Grey, Red) and  Lynx

Are skunks dangerous, How do you get a skunk to leave?While there may be no end in sight yet for winter, one native pest animal species is getting ready for spring and mating season right now – yes, the skunk. Love is in the air! Well, actually, that unmistakable aroma in the air generally means that a female skunk was less than impressed with her love struck suitor and rejected him by releasing “that smell”. Thankfully, skunk mating season along with its pungent whiff is short.

Skunks are becoming more active during the months of February and March – out looking for that perfect mating partner. You might think skunks nocturnal but, it is actually not that uncommon to see skunks out ‘n about during the daytime. If there is food to be had, if their usual daytime snooze spot is disturbed, and definitely if there are babies… you’ll likely cross paths with a skunk or two. Hopefully, you don’t see them lifeless by the side of the road; unfortunately, many skunks end up struck and killed by vehicles.

Of course, during this time of year skunks are not only looking for a suitable partner, but also for a safe and protected den to have and raise their offspring.  They are skilled and diligent diggers, and like to make their dens in holes underground and/or under structures. Hopefully, you inspected your home and yard last summer or fall and made repairs where necessary to prevent nuisance wildlife from getting under your deck or porch. You may have installed an underground ¼” wire mesh to prevent skunks from getting under.

Even if you did all that, it’s still a good idea to have a close look again right now – just to make sure there are no new access points. If you do find any, make repairs where you can but, of course, exclusion methods such as the mesh wire are impossible to implement in the middle of February – at least, here, in Ontario.

 

 

What attracts skunks? What should you avoid doing to deter skunks?

Of course, you’ll want to make sure your garbage bins are well secured and there are no other food sources readily available. And, as much as we all love watching the traffic to and from our bird feeders… bird seed will also attract skunks (and squirrels). So will the presence of smaller birds and their nests (eggs). If you can, avoid feeding your pets outside and store your pet feed indoors.

 

But what do you do, if despite your best efforts you find yourself hosting a skunk or five? How do you get your skunk(s) to leave?

  1. You can employ what is called “Humane Harassment”. This entails making a perfectly dark and quiet spot... well, not so dark and quiet. Install bright lights at the entrance and point them into the dwelling, play the radio at high volume (talk radio – they aren’t fond of human voices), and place rags soaked with apple cider vinegar or ammonia (bleach) by the entrance. In other words, turn their 5 star all inclusive into the youth hostel from hell. You’ll need to keep this up for at least 3 days and nights – patience and persistence is key. Chances are that momma skunk (wishing to be, expecting, or having a litter already) will move herself and any wee ones to a place more suitable for child rearing.

Speaking of babies… here’s what you should know: After a sixty day gestation period, female skunks give birth to a litter of pups in April or May. Older females come into estrus earlier in the season than younger females and, therefore, have their litters earlier in the spring. Older females also tend to have larger litters. Typically a litter consists of four to seven babies (although, as many as nine have been recorded).  One male may mate with several females and won’t stick around after. After mating, female skunks leave their winter den in search of the perfect maternal den. Interestingly, mothers and their offspring sometimes live in communal dens.

The young are blind and deaf at birth with short, fine fur. Momma skunk nurses the little ones for about six weeks before introducing them to the world outside their den. By this time, the babies are miniature replicas of momma skunk. The young are weaned by about two months of age. The family group breaks up in the fall and the young’uns move off to college. Just kidding… they find their own territory. They may travel about six to ten km in search of a new home; however, extremes of up to fifty km have been noted.

  1. You can try a ‘repellent’ – such as used cat litter. It simulates a predator in the area and momma skunk may decide to pitch her tent elsewhere. As a side note: Please try to avoid commercial repellents based on predator urine - these products are created under very inhumane conditions. Additionally, they really provide no better success rates than home remedies (such as the kitty litter).

  2. One way doors work great – if there are no babies. Please, please, be sure there are no babies. If you prevent momma skunk from caring for her little ones, you are condemning them to a horrific death.

  3. Trapping works well – if there are no babies. You’ll also need to remember that animals may not be relocated farther than 1km from where they were captured. This is a job for the professionals. Call Hawkeye at 416-529.5393 – we’re here to help. We have very specific licenses and permits that enable us to offer you options other pest animal control companies simply cannot.

  4. You can decide to do nothing at all.  Skunks typically stay in their dens for fairly short periods. Skunk babies are grown and ready to strike out on their own by the end of summer. If you can stand it that long, you can then close off any access points to prevent other animals from using the den in the future.

 

So, aside from the “aroma” – are there other reasons you wouldn’t want a skunk hanging around? Are skunks dangerous?

  1. Skunks are mostly regarded as just a pest and generally pretty docile but they do carry a strain of rabies that can potentially affect pets and even humans. Rabies can be transmitted through saliva (a bite) before the infected animal shows any symptoms (generally abnormal behavior, such as overly active during the day, uncharacteristically aggressive or lethargic, vocalization, stumbling, seizing, etc. ). Several things should be done immediately if a person is bitten by a wild animal or a domestic animal that has not been vaccinated against rabies. First, wash the wound with soap and water and continue flushing the wound with water for five minutes. Then get medical attention immediately. Humans who have contracted rabies may first develop symptoms of pain, tingling, or itching shooting from the bite site (or site of virus entry) and gradually will become extremely ill, developing a variety of symptoms, including high fever, confusion, agitation, and eventually seizures and coma. Once the symptoms appear in humans, there is NO cure or treatment and death occurs in almost 100% of the cases. Learn more about Rabies »
     
  2. They get into pet or livestock feed in barns, sheds, or garages. They steal eggs and can potentially harm chickens and other smaller birds and poultry, such as quail.

  3. The avid gardener will have cursed skunks more than once. They like to dig up bulbs and flowers. They’ll also dig up the lawn for grubs.

  4. Still in the garden… any low hanging or otherwise accessible fruit is fair game for skunks. The same goes for vegetables.

  5. Let’s get back to “that smell”… de-skunking your dog or cat is not a whole lot of fun. Not for you, or your pet. There are a number of recipes out there but, our most trusted and recommended remedy is this: 1 quart of 3 percent hydrogen peroxide (fresh bottle), ¼ cup of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate), and 1-2 teaspoons of liquid dish soap. Rinse and repeat. Then, rinse and repeat again.

    Incidentally, one of our employees recalls this story:

    “Our black and white cat Twinkie was a bit of a roamer and would often disappear for a day or two. At the end of one of his little excursions we encountered him on the road while driving back from town. Only, there were two of them. One was clearly our cat, the other one kinda looked like an upside-down Twinkie. Turned out, that one was a skunk. Somehow, they had struck up a friendship and the two of them could be seen together quite regularly. Fast forward a couple of months… our super friendly dog (not an ounce of killer instinct – his only kill might have been a fly he accidentally sat on) spotted something black and white across the front lawn and sprinted towards it with great enthusiasm. He surely thought it was the cat. Can you tell where this is going? Yeah, it wasn’t Twinkie. It took 3 washes that evening to get him fit for indoor admission. And another one the next day.”

 

Is there an upside to having skunks around? Are skunks good for anything?

Indeed, skunks are not entirely useless. They do devour insects such as grasshoppers and beetles plus a variety of insect larvae. They also eat small mammals such as mice or voles. Additionally, they are scavengers – feeding on decaying fish, animals, and other organic matter. They are part of nature’s clean-up crew, if you will.

 

 

Why Hawkeye?

We GUARANTEE results. We offer PERMANENT solutions above and beyond what other companies can offer. Hawkeye is the ONLY pest bird and animal/wildlife control company in Canada designated "Certified Wildlife Control Professional" AND holding the following licenses:  

  • Trapping of Fur Bearing Animals Permit: In contrast to all other companies, we can euthanize the bird or fur-bearing animal, thus guaranteeing it will not return.
  • Falconry Permit: We use Birds of Prey (hawks, owls, falcons, eagles) to scare, chase, or remove in a natural and humane way.
  • Pest ControlLicense: We can employ chemical solutions to certain problems. These methods include natural pesticides.

Now with 7 Locations ( 6 In Canada and 1 in the U.S), we are ready to serve you better in Acton,  Toronto, Oshawa,  Bowmanville,  two locations in Mississauga and West Palm Beach in Florida.

Contact us today or email us at [email protected] if you need help with pest wildlife/animal control and/or pest animal removal.

Pest wildlife animals like Bats, Bears (Black, Brown), Beavers, Bobcats, Cats - Domestic (Feline), Chipmunks, Coyotes, Deer, Elk, Fox,  Groundhog, Marten, Mink, Moose, Muskrat, Porcupine, Possum/Opossum, Rabbits, Raccoons, Skunks, Squirrels (Black, Grey, Red) and  Lynx

 

Avian Influenza

bird flu a threat to not only poultryEven though avian influenza is often an illness only associated with poultry farmers, this virus can affect wild and captive birds alike, including the birds of prey we use in falconry such as hawks, falcons, owls, and eagles. This flu can be extremely destructive and move quickly through farms if gone undetected, this is why it is critical to monitor your birds daily to check for signs of infection or disease. Common symptoms of avian flu include lethargy, respiratory problems, decreased appetite, nasal secretions, and swollen head and eyelids. In gallinaceous birds specifically such as turkeys, pheasants, and chickens, this can also cause discoloration of the comb and waddle. Unfortunately, there are some asymptomatic cases leading to sudden death, but this is not very common.

The most common cause of transmission from one bird to another is to contact via infected feces or nasal discharge. Unclean bird housing and poor ventilation can also aid in the spread of the virus. For falconry birds and birds of prey, the most likely cause of this virus is contact with infected prey during hunting. But if you have multiple birds in an aviary and one raptor is ill, even if they are in separate mews (rooms), sharing equipment such as leather gloves between an infected and non-infected bird could aid in the transmission of this virus. As a human, you must also be wary of contracting the avian flu from an infected bird the same way another bird would, through feces or nasal secretions. Luckily the spread from bird to human and human to human is rare and unlike a human flu happens very rarely through extremely close contact. Nevertheless, avian influenza symptoms should be treated with caution, proper housekeeping, and proper hygiene as almost 60 percent of people who have contracted the avian flu did not survive.

When talking about avian influenza, there are two main forms of the virus that you should be aware of; low pathogenicity avian influenza (H7N2) and high pathogenicity avian influenza (H5N1). It goes without saying that H5N1 is far more aggressive, killing around 90 percent of birds infected with this virus, while H7N2 presents flu-like symptoms but clears up without causing death nearly 100 percent of the time. Unfortunately, it is impossible to know which form of the virus your bird (s) has without testing, so it is important to take any symptoms seriously and provide treatment and care as soon as possible.

Once detected, antiviral medication can be used in an attempt to cure the virus and is often effective if caught early. It is strongly advised that professional help is sought out if any symptoms occur. In fact, Hawkeye participates in the rehabilitation of birds of prey in hopes that they can be released again into the wild, caring for injured or orphaned birds of prey needing medical treatment. If your bird or a wild bird you found is in need of emergency medical attention, Hawkeye can help connect you to a suitable veterinarian clinic or the University of Guelph Small Animal Clinic. If the bird is wild, please watch them from a distance and do not approach without calling a rescue center or asking for professional help first.

Keep in mind that Hawkeye itself is not an emergency medical treatment center, but we can assist in the rehabilitation of non-emergent injuries or conditions and send you to the proper locations for emergent situations. Not only does Hawkeye assist in rehabilitation, but we have also licensed bird and animal control and removal specialists. Dealing with all fur-bearing animals and pest birds, Hawkeye is your one-stop shop for wildlife control. Call 416.429.5393 today!

Hawkeye is the ONLY Toronto and Golden Horseshoe area licensed Pest Bird Control Specialist offering PERMANENT REMOVAL & GUARANTEED RESULTS. We are uniquely qualified under permits and licenses to PERMANENTLY REMOVE AND CONTROL pest birds such as pigeons, seagulls, geese, starlings, and swallows using a variety of methods including Birds of Prey.  Additionally, we offer cleaning and disinfecting of affected areas and facilitate future exclusion of birds.

CALL 416-HAWKEYE (416-429-5393) TO TAKE CONTROL OF YOUR PEST BIRD PROBLEM TODAY!